BH Updates

I’m winding down in Australia. The vintage will be coming to a close in a few weeks, at least for the growers and viticulturists. The winemakers have much to do still, as they consider how to divide up the many different parcels of grapes resting in tanks or barrels. In 10 days I’m off to…

I have finally begun to make wine. Well, not exactly, but I am doing barrel work. This includes all things related to oak barrels: washing, coding, filling, stacking, and smelling. Smelling is important. Lisa W., R Wines winemaker, told me that last year they had some 60 barrels contaminated with tainted wood before it was…

I was driving from the Barossa this morning, and found myself in some thick fog. I pulled over on Mengler’s Hill to observe the damp cloud, to feel it on my skin, and got out of my little red Getz. So often the air here has been hot and dry, but today it was like…

This is the time of my life. I can feel it like one feels the approach of the end of a love affair. The telling moments are impossible to ignore, but they are absolutely true and unstoppable as they reveal themselves. Where all this travel and work is leading me to is anybody’s guess. And…

I’ve been able to watch the progression of this vintage in South Australia from the early stages. Meeting all the different characters who contribute to the final product has illustrated how much work goes into producing one bottle of fine table wine. Certainly, the physical labor in the production loop is one of the most…

The landlocked Barossa Valley is a deeply rooted agricultural region still strongly, and strangely, influenced by their German and English heritage. It’s been odd speaking German with the locals here and eating phenomenal bratwurst, but in many ways it’s refreshing to see an area remain so true to its past. Compared to the fresh and…

I went North to the Barossa this weekend, and barely made it back alive. There’s something dangerous in the air up there that pours lots of good red wine down my gullet. I think it has a name, this evil force, they call it: Travis O’Callaghan. Travis is a great guy, don’t get me wrong,…

Meltdown is upon us. As I stated earlier, this is turning out to be one of the most extraordinary years in Aussie viticultural history, and the vineyards are finally kaputt, calling it a day, and falling apart. The R winemaking team has been walking through all of the vineyards, over 150 of them, monitoring the…

It comes down to this: it’s the final three weeks of harvest before the premium reds finish their final stretch of developing full flavor profiles and are put to the press. It’s been the worst year of drought in Australia since 1982 (looking at 100f plus this weekend), and the growers can feel the pain…

The grapes are coming into Belvedere, the large commercial winery that R Wines calls home, by the truckload. Capable of handling 20,000 tons of fruit, Belvedere is a monster, but still small next to Wolf Blass’s 250,000 ton facility down the road. We will be crushing about 5,000 tons of fruit, merely a drop in…

The vintage here is getting stressful, not enough grapes to go around, and dozens of growers to coddle until the contracts are signed and the fruit finally arrives at the winery. We work til our fingers bleed, then relax. And there is no finer breeze and light than in South Australia. Viticulturists (those that prepare…

I’ve begun driving long distances, which has caused some confusion, thanks to prehistoric signage pointing to the long forgotten villages of Middle Earth, as well as a chance to see more of the expansive sun stained countryside. R Winery is drawing from vineyards scattered all over South Australia, like McLaren Vale, the Barossa, and fairly…

This has been one of the hottest and driest summers in history, which is saying something in Australia. I spent a good part of yesterday wandering round downtown under the severe sun looking for sunglasses, an ipod cover, a usb modem, and an fm transmitor. All of these will help me continue writing as I…

After a smooth flight to Adelaide and its posh new airport, I was met there by Alberto and Rachel of the Grateful Palate. It was sunny and warm, indicative of the drought South Australia has been suffering for some months now. We met with two young winemakers of the R Winery which is now developing…

Reflecting upon the trip to Oz before me, and it seems like it could just be outrageous. I was in Australia about 2 years ago for 21 days and loved the geography. I just remember the landscapes were so stunning; spacious rolling hills, earth looking scorched, expansive blue sky, monstrous gum trees like massive bones…

It’s been ten years in NYC and this week I make the big move down under to Australia to turn the page for new adventures. My friends showed me off in fine style and with much love, I think. Certainly the 90 Margaux was worth leaving town for. Thank you, boys!